Sailing in French Polynesia

Sailing in French Polynesia: The Complete Guide for Charter Sailors

French Polynesia is a dream destination for sailors, offering an irresistible blend of natural beauty and rich Polynesian culture. This remote Pacific archipelago spans five island groups, but for yacht charters the standout region is the Society Islands – home to legendary names like Tahiti, Bora Bora, and Moorea. Picture yourself gliding through warm, crystal-clear lagoons under steady tradewinds, with emerald volcanic peaks rising dramatically from the sea. The appeal of sailing here is the sheer paradise of the scenery (think vibrant coral reefs and palm-fringed motu islets), coupled with a sense of adventure in one of the world’s most far-flung cruising grounds. Add to that the French flair (yes, you can get baguettes in Tahiti!) and the welcoming Polynesian hospitality, and it’s easy to see why French Polynesia belongs on every sailor’s bucket list.

In this guide, we’ll focus primarily on sailing the Society Islands, the heart of French Polynesia’s charter scene. We’ll explore the key sailing areas, anchorages and conditions, then touch on the more remote Tuamotus and Marquesas for the intrepid. You’ll find practical info on climate and wind (with a seasonal calendar), harbour and mooring tips, navigation advice, and an overview of charter options – from bareboat to crewed, including costs and qualifications. There’s also a sample one-week itinerary around the Society Islands to spark your imagination. This article is written in a clear, digestible format (British English) with short paragraphs, headings, lists, and a FAQ at the end – perfect for sailors considering their first or second Pacific charter. Let’s set sail into the details!

Society Islands – The Heart of Tahitian Sailing

The Society Islands are French Polynesia’s best-known and most accessible cruising grounds. They are divided into the Windward Islands (including Tahiti and Moorea) and the Leeward Islands (such as Raiatea, Tahaa, Bora Bora, and Huahine). These high volcanic islands are encircled by coral reefs that form calm blue lagoons – idyllic for anchoring and snorkelling. Distances between islands are moderate (often 20–30 nautical miles), making for half-day open-water passages followed by afternoons relaxing in a protected anchorage.

Most charter itineraries stick to the Societies because they offer a perfect mix of reliable sailing conditions and well-charted, sheltered waters. You’ll find modern charter bases on Raiatea (the nautical hub) and Tahiti, decent provisioning in main villages, and a friendly cruising community. Below we highlight the key islands and what sailors can expect:

Tahiti & Moorea (Windward Islands)

Tahiti is the largest island and the seat of French Polynesia’s capital, Papeete. For many sailors it’s the gateway – you’ll likely fly into Tahiti’s Faa’a International Airport. Tahiti itself is less about cruising (apart from its marinas and services) and more a jumping-off point. That said, Marina Papeete in the capital offers secure dockage and a chance to experience the bustling market, restaurants, and to stock up on fresh baguettes and tropical fruit before you set sail. There are also a few anchorages on Tahiti’s west coast (like Matavai Bay) and the option of a day sail to the atoll of Tetiaroa (Marlon Brando’s island) for the adventurous, though it has no protected anchorage to overnight.

Just 15 NM west of Tahiti lies Moorea, a stunning island that often serves as the first “taste” of cruising paradise. Moorea’s distinctive jagged green mountains and twin bays make for a magical backdrop. Sailors can anchor or pick up moorings in Cook’s Bay or Opunohu Bay, two deep fjord-like bays puncturing Moorea’s north coast. These bays are well protected and offer calm waters with dramatic scenery – imagine anchoring below towering peaks where waterfalls spill into lush valleys. Outside the bays, Moorea also has a lagoon with shallow sand anchors; for example, the northwest coast near Papetoai has beautiful clear-water anchorages behind the reef (great for snorkelling with rays). Sailing conditions around Tahiti and Moorea are typically comfortable, with steady trade winds funnelling between the islands. Do note that passes (breaks in the reef) are used to enter or exit the lagoons – both Tahiti and Moorea have well-marked passes (like Paopao Pass for Cook’s Bay) that are safe in normal conditions, but always require vigilance and preferably daylight navigation.

Moorea is often a highlight for its blend of ease and beauty: you can enjoy hiking to viewpoints or visiting pineapple farms by day, and experience traditional Polynesian dance shows in the evening – all while your yacht lies securely in a calm bay. If your charter starts on Tahiti, a short hop to Moorea is an ideal beginning. Many charters, however, start in Raiatea (Leewards), so let’s head there next.

Raiatea & Taha’a (Leeward Islands)

Raiatea and Taha’a are two separate islands that share an enclosing coral reef and lagoon, making it seem like one large playground for sailors. Raiatea, often called the “Sacred Island”, is the second-largest society island and is the yachting capital of French Polynesia. The main town Uturoa (on Raiatea’s north coast) hosts the major charter bases (Moorings, Sunsail, etc.), a marina, fuel dock, and a vibrant market for provisioning. You’ll likely begin and end your charter here in Raiatea’s Apooiti or Uturoa marina.

Once you cast off, Raiatea offers several gems: one popular excursion is taking your dinghy up the Faaroa River on the east side – Polynesia’s only navigable river, winding through a verdant jungle (a serene change from salt water). Raiatea’s lagoon has plenty of anchoring spots and a few mooring buoys installed by local authorities (for example, in Faaroa Bay) to protect coral – always check their condition if you use them. On the southeast side, near the UNESCO-listed Taputapuatea marae (an ancient temple site), you can anchor off a gorgeous motu and even visit this important cultural spot.

Taha’a, Raiatea’s sister island within the same lagoon, is often called the “Vanilla Island” for its numerous vanilla farms. It is a short sail (or even just a dinghy ride in some parts) from Raiatea – making it perfect for easy exploration. Taha’a has deep bays like Haamene Bay (known for a tasty local restaurant, Chez Louise) and lovely small resorts where you might snag a mooring if you dine there. On the west side of Taha’a, don’t miss the Coral Garden near Tautau islet – a famous snorkelling drift where you can float through an aquarium-like channel of coral teaming with reef fish. You can pick up a free mooring at the Taha’a Coral Garden (often provided by nearby resorts or tour ops) or anchor in sand nearby, then snorkel the shallow channel between the motus.

Sailing around Raiatea/Taha’a’s lagoon is mostly line-of-sight. The lagoon waters are sheltered, though be mindful of coral heads (bommies) scattered in shallower areas – the water is so clear that these appear as dark patches; keep a lookout or have a crew on the bow when navigating close inshore. Both islands have passes out to the open ocean (e.g., Teavapiti Pass near Uturoa, and Pai Pai Pass in Taha’a’s north). Exiting through these lets you venture to the other Leeward islands. Navigation through passes is straightforward with charts and markers – just avoid doing so at night or when big swells and strong winds oppose the outgoing lagoon current (that can make conditions rough in the pass). Typically, you’ll plan to depart through a pass in the morning when sun and visibility are good.

Huahine

About 20 NM east of Raiatea lies Huahine, often a favourite stop for those seeking a quieter, unspoilt vibe. Huahine actually consists of two islands (Huahine Nui and Huahine Iti) enclosed by one reef, earning it the nickname “The Garden Island” for its lush forests and fertile land. It’s less developed than Bora Bora or Tahiti, exuding a peaceful Polynesian charm.

Arriving by yacht, you’ll enter Huahine’s lagoon through Avapehi Pass or one of the other marked passes on the west side. The main village is Fare, on the northwest coast of Huahine Nui – a sleepy waterfront town with a few shops, an excellent small supermarket, and famously, Chez Guynette, a casual sailors’ bar/café where cruisers gather. Off Fare you’ll often find moorings provided for visiting yachts, and anchoring in sand is possible outside the mooring field. This anchorage has decent protection (though some swell can creep in) and is convenient for going ashore to enjoy the village life or to rent a bicycle to explore.

Huahine’s lagoon offers several lovely anchorages: on the west side of Huahine Iti, Avea Bay (near the southern tip) is a highlight – a calm anchorage behind the reef with stunning clear water and a white sand bottom (great holding). There’s a small resort and restaurant (Le Mahana) on shore and fantastic coral gardens to snorkel on the reef edge. Reaching Avea Bay from Fare is a scenic trip inside the lagoon—just be cautious of shallow spots and follow the marked channel. In the southeast of Huahine, by Hana Iti, there’s also a beautiful anchorage near a motu with good snorkelling, though more isolated.

Huahine has cultural depth too: it boasts some of the best-preserved ancient Marae (temples) in Polynesia. You can dinghy or tour to sites like Maeva village to see archaeological ruins among freshwater lagoons filled with blue-eyed eels. Overall, Huahine offers a serene stop with a mix of nature, culture, and gentle hospitality – a lovely contrast to busier Bora Bora.

Bora Bora

No name in the South Pacific conjures romance quite like Bora Bora. Sailors approach Bora Bora with a sense of awe – from a distance you’ll see Mt. Otemanu’s basalt peak piercing the sky, encircled by a halo of the brightest turquoise lagoon. It’s approximately 20–25 NM northwest of Raiatea/Taha’a. The journey from Taha’a to Bora Bora is typically a glorious downwind sail in the trade winds, often taking 4–5 hours. Bora Bora has a single main entrance, Teavanui Pass, on the western side, leading into the lagoon just off the island’s principal town of Vaitape.

Once inside Bora Bora’s vast lagoon, you’re greeted by 36+ motus (islets) and water in every shade of blue. Despite Bora Bora’s fame and luxury resorts (those iconic overwater bungalows are mostly on the motus along the reef), it remains very cruiser-friendly. You can anchor in many areas (sand patches abound, though watch for coral heads) or pick up moorings in popular spots. The Bora Bora Yacht Club, just north of Vaitape, maintains a set of mooring buoys for a nightly fee – it’s a convenient base with a dinghy dock, bar/restaurant, and Wi-Fi. From there, you can dinghy into Vaitape to shop or explore.

For a more secluded feel, many yachts head to the southeastern side of Bora Bora’s lagoon, near the Coral Garden or the famed manta ray cleaning station at Anau. There are some free town moorings off the village of Anau, or you can anchor in sand off the reef. Here you can snorkel with manta rays as they glide over coral bommies, or just revel in the unreal panorama of the lagoon’s blue gradients. Another favourite anchorage is off Motu Toopua on the western side, which offers a beautiful sunset view of the main island’s silhouette.

While in Bora Bora, activities abound – snorkelling in sites like the “Aquarium” (near a reef spot teeming with fish), swimming with benign reef sharks and rays in shallow sandbars, visiting a pearl farm, or simply enjoying a cocktail with a view of Otemanu. Keep in mind Bora Bora’s lagoon is large but shallow in places; follow the marked channels when moving around inside. The water clarity is excellent, so you can often see the shallow sand vs coral areas easily. The island’s popularity means you may see more yachts here, but it rarely feels crowded except perhaps in July/August high season. Bora Bora’s beauty is truly the climax of a Society Islands cruise – many itineraries save a day or two here to soak it all in.

Other Notable Spots in the Societies

Aside from the big names above, the Society group has a few more islands that adventurous sailors might consider if time permits:

• Maupiti – A small, unspoilt island west of Bora Bora (about 28 NM further). Maupiti is often described as “Bora Bora decades ago” – quiet villages, gorgeous lagoon, and no large resorts. However, its single reef pass is notoriously shallow and narrow with strong currents. In rough weather or swell, entry can be dangerous or impossible. Many charter companies do not allow their boats to attempt Maupiti unless conditions are extremely calm and the crew is experienced. If you do manage to enter, you’ll find one of the most tranquil anchorages and an authentic slice of Polynesian life with superb snorkeling. But always have a plan to turn back if the pass conditions aren’t benign.
• Tahiti Iti – The smaller “peninsula” of Tahiti (Tahiti has a figure-8 shape) has a wild coastline with few safe anchorages, except in very settled weather. Some cruisers venture to Teahupo’o (famous for its surf wave) to anchor off the village when seas are calm, but it’s not typical for short charters.
• Tetiaroa – An atoll north of Tahiti, once Marlon Brando’s private retreat. It has no protected anchorage (only a day anchorage off the reef in calm conditions) and a very shallow pass not navigable by yachts. It’s usually visited only via tour boat or by the boldest sailors willing to anchor off for a lunch stop in fair weather.

In summary, the Society Islands provide a mix of easy lagoon sailing and adventurous blue-water hops. Within the reefs, you enjoy flat water sailing with stunning views, and between islands you get the thrill of open ocean for a few hours – enough to test your skills without feeling too isolated. With the Societies as your cruising playground, you have all the ingredients for an unforgettable charter: steady winds, ample safe anchorages, friendly ports of call, and scenery that lives up to the hype.

Tuamotus and Marquesas – Remote Frontiers for Experienced Sailors

Beyond the Society Islands lie other archipelagos of French Polynesia that offer incredible experiences for seasoned sailors. These areas are far more remote and challenging, typically suited to advanced cruisers or as part of longer Pacific voyages rather than a first charter holiday. Here’s a brief look at the Tuamotus and Marquesas:

Tuamotu Atolls

The Tuamotu Archipelago is a vast chain of coral atolls stretching to the northeast of the Societies. Picture dozens of rings of coral scattered in the deep ocean, each encircling a lagoon – that’s the Tuamotus. Famous atolls like Rangiroa, Fakarava, Tikehau, and many others beckon divers and adventurers with their pristine reefs, abundant marine life, and absolutely postcard-perfect lagoons. There are no mountains here – the highest points are coconut palms on low sandy motus – so navigation and seamanship become critical.

Sailing the Tuamotus is often described as both magical and demanding. The rewards: uninhabited motus with bird colonies, world-class diving in pass currents (drifting through an underwater wonderland of coral and fish), and nights at anchor under a star-studded sky with not a soul around. The challenges: each atoll has one or a few pass entrances into the lagoon, which must be timed carefully. Strong tidal currents flow in and out through these passes, sometimes up to 8 knots or more, and they can produce standing waves or rips if wind and tide oppose. Safe entry often requires waiting for slack tide (when current is minimal) and good sunlight to spot coral heads. Once inside an atoll’s lagoon, navigation is by eye as much as by chart – coral bommies dot the lagoon and you often pilot the boat visually, weaving through turquoise shallows to find a patch of sand to anchor. Depths in lagoons can change suddenly, so constant vigilance is needed.

Facilities in the Tuamotus are very limited: a few atolls have villages where you can find basic supplies, fuel or a pension (guesthouse), but there are no marinas or yacht services to speak of. You must be self-sufficient and prepared for true off-grid cruising. Weather can be another factor – while the Tuamotus generally have light winds in the peak season and lie north of the main cyclone path, squalls can blow through and there’s no high land for shelter. When the wind picks up, atoll anchorages (which are essentially open lagoon anchored behind a reef) can get uncomfortable or even untenable if a swell comes over the reef.

Due to these factors, most casual charterers do not venture to the Tuamotus unless they have an experienced skipper and at least two weeks or more. Some crewed charter yachts offer expeditions there, or sailors heading across the Pacific will stop in the Tuamotus as part of their voyage. But if you do have the skill and opportunity, the Tuamotus offer an unparalleled sense of discovery – imagine having an entire coral atoll virtually to yourself, diving with sharks in Fakarava’s famous south pass, or catching your dinner from the untouched reefs. It’s the next level of Polynesian sailing, best attempted once you’ve honed your skills in the Society Islands or similar waters.

Marquesas Islands

While the Tuamotus are low coral atolls, the Marquesas (located far to the north-east, about 750–800 NM from Tahiti) are the opposite: towering volcanic islands without fringing reefs. The Marquesas are legendary among blue-water sailors as the first landfall after the long Pacific crossing from the Americas. For charterers, they are generally out of reach unless you arrange a special long-distance charter or are part of a rally/expedition – the distance and lack of charter infrastructure make it impractical for short visits (no standard charter company operates out here).

That said, the Marquesas deserve mention as a cruising frontier. These islands – including Nuku Hiva, Hiva Oa, Ua Pou, Fatu Hiva, and others – offer spectacular landscapes: razor-sharp ridges cloaked in green, plunging waterfalls, and valleys where wild horses roam. The culture is distinct; Marquesans have proud traditions of carving and tattoo, and you’ll sense a different vibe than the Societies – more rugged and ancient. For sailors, however, the Marquesas present some difficulties:

• No protective lagoons – without barrier reefs, the anchorages are mostly open roadsteads. You drop anchor in bays that can be very deep near shore and subject to ocean swell. This often means rolly nights and the need to set a stern anchor or line ashore to limit your movement in swells.
• Unpredictable winds – the Marquesas sit relatively near the equator (around 8–10°S), so the trade winds can be lighter or more variable. Squalls are common year-round. Hurricanes/cyclones are extremely rare this far north, which is a plus.
• Limited services – there are a few villages with basic stores and one or two small harbours (Taiohae Bay in Nuku Hiva has a simple dock and fuel). But generally, yachts must be self-sufficient. There are no marinas; you’ll be anchoring everywhere.
• Rolly anchorages and pests – as noted, ocean swell makes many anchorages uncomfortable. Also infamous in the Marquesas are the “nonos” – tiny biting flies (sandflies) that can be a torment in some bays, particularly in the wetter months. Good bug repellent and screens are a must if cruising there.

Despite these, the Marquesas reward intrepid sailors with an authenticity and wild beauty that few places on Earth still have. Hikes to ancient tiki statues in the jungle, sharing stories with locals over pamplemousse (giant grapefruit), and experiencing a night at anchor under sheer volcanic spires are unforgettable. However, for most charter sailors on a holiday timeframe, the Marquesas are not a feasible add-on to a Societies trip – consider them a future goal if you catch the sailing bug and go further.

In summary, the Tuamotus and Marquesas represent the outer edges of cruising in French Polynesia. They are mentioned here to give a full picture of the region’s offerings, but they come with higher risk and require advanced skill and planning. If you are new to Pacific sailing, it’s wise to stick to the Society Islands (and maybe a touch of the easier Tuamotus like Rangiroa with a professional skipper) for your first Polynesian charter. The good news is that the Societies alone will provide ample wonder and challenge without needing to go further afield.

Winds and Climate – When to Sail in French Polynesia

French Polynesia enjoys a tropical maritime climate moderated by the Pacific trade winds. There are two main seasons:

• a Cooler, Dry Season (Austral winter) from May to October, and
• a Warmer, Wet Season from November to April.

This isn’t a place with big temperature swings – it’s pleasantly warm year-round – but the difference in rainfall and wind patterns between seasons is significant. Below is a seasonal overview for the Society Islands region (Tahiti and surrounds), which applies broadly to the popular sailing areas:

Seasonal highlights

The vast majority of sailors choose the dry season (May–Oct) for chartering in French Polynesia. These months offer idyllic weather – sunny days, consistent winds, and tranquil lagoons. June through August is high season with the most visitors (and correspondingly higher charter rates and demand). Shoulder months like May, September, and October can be fantastic: still largely dry but slightly less busy, and winds a tad gentler. If you’re after a quieter experience and don’t mind some rain, the wet season (particularly November or April) can be considered – the islands are much less crowded, charters often cheaper, and you’ll still get plenty of warm, beautiful days, just interspersed with rain. However, you must keep an eye on weather systems in case a cyclone or depression forms.

Water temperature remains inviting all year (around 26–29°C), so snorkelling and diving are always on the cards.

In terms of wind patterns, note that while the trades dominate, they are not as predictable as, say, in the Caribbean. The South Pacific Convergence Zone can cause disturbances even in the cooler months, so sailors might occasionally encounter a few days of lighter winds or a passing front that brings strong winds from an unusual direction. Always check the local forecast (your charter base will provide guidance on weather resources like VHF broadcasts or internet weather apps).

Harbours and Anchorages in the Society Islands

Sailing in French Polynesia, especially the Societies, is distinct from places like the Mediterranean in that marinas are few and far between. Outside of Tahiti and Raiatea, you won’t find large harbours – instead, you’ll primarily be anchoring in lagoons or picking up mooring buoys. Here’s what to expect:

• Tahiti (Papeete) – The main port of entry with proper marina facilities. Marina Papeete and Marina Taina (the latter a bit out of town near the airport) offer slips, fuel, water, and other services. If your itinerary involves Tahiti, these marinas are convenient for embarkation or a mid-voyage reprovisioning stop. Papeete’s harbour is busy (big ships, ferries) but well-organized. Outside Papeete, most of Tahiti’s coastline has fringing reef; there are a couple of anchorages (like at Point Venus or along the west coast by hotels) but generally fewer leisure boat anchor sites.
• Moorea – No marinas, only anchorages and a few moorings. Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay have community or private moorings (sometimes near restaurants or resorts) and plenty of space to anchor in mud/sand at comfortable depths (~10-15 m in parts of Cook’s Bay, shallower at bay heads). Elsewhere on Moorea’s reef shelf, you anchor in sand patches among coral. Popular spots may have mooring buoys installed by tour operators (for example, near Stingray Paradise on the north coast) – if free, you can use them short-term, but always inspect them.
• Raiatea & Taha’a – Raiatea’s Uturoa harbour has a town quay and the Apooiti charter marina (with dock space for charter yachts). There’s also a small marina at Baie Faaroa (east side) that some cruisers use. Once cruising, expect to anchor most places. Both islands have many deep bays; often the bay depths drop off quickly to 20-30+ m, which is too deep for easy anchoring. Thus, you’ll usually anchor on the periphery of bays or off fringing motus, where the depth comes up to 5–15 m. Several bays (like Haamene Bay or Hurepiti Bay on Taha’a) have informal moorings maintained by local businesses – if you plan to dine at their establishment or take a tour, they might let you use their buoy. In Raiatea’s Faaroa Bay, as noted, the government has set some public mooring buoys to encourage boats to stay off the coral; similarly off Fare village in Huahine there are public moorings. These are very handy, but be cautious: always check the state of the mooring line/shackle, and don’t rely on them in winds near gale force (occasional failures have occurred). When in doubt, anchoring on your own tackle in sand is the safest bet.
• Huahine – No marinas. Anchorages off Fare (with a few moorings), off villages like Port Bourayne or around the south (Avea Bay) are all on anchor. Depths range from very shallow (in the southern lagoon you can find lovely 3–5 m sand patches) to very deep (off steep shores). You might sometimes rig a bow and stern anchor in narrow bays to keep from swinging onto coral or shore – but generally there’s adequate room to swing at single anchor in designated areas.
• Bora Bora – No formal marina for yachts (though some superyachts arrange private dock at resorts). Most yachts will use moorings or anchor. As mentioned, the Bora Bora Yacht Club moorings are convenient (reserve or arrive early in high season). The Mai Kai Marina (really a restaurant & bar) also has a few moorings near Vaitape. Around the lagoon, Bora has some yellow buoys which indicate either no-anchoring zones or sometimes public moorings – check the latest charts/guide. A lot of the lagoon bottom is sand but interspersed with coral heads; anchoring is possible in many areas but you must take care to drop the hook in sand and ensure you won’t drift onto coral. The good news is that Bora’s lagoon is mostly shallow (5-10 m in many anchoring spots), so it’s relatively easy to anchor if you find a clear patch.
• Maupiti – If you ever go, there are a couple of moorings in the lagoon placed by locals, and limited anchoring spots due to small area and many coral heads. Definitely not a harbour, just a challenging anchoring situation.

Harbour etiquette and services

In the Societies, when you do come to a village quay (say to load water or fuel, or briefly shop), it’s often acceptable to med-moor or side-tie for a short time if space allows. Just inquire with locals if unsure. Outside of Tahiti and Raiatea, fuel is available on Bora Bora (fuel dock in Vaitape) and sometimes in Huahine (tankers bring fuel to a depot near Fare – check ahead if you need it). Water you can top up at marinas or in some villages (but the supply may be limited/purchased by jerry can). Electricity shore power is basically only in marinas.

Mooring styles: You won’t commonly do Mediterranean-style mooring (stern-to dock with an anchor out) except perhaps in some very specific situations (like at the town pier in Uturoa or if docking in Papeete). The usual practice is:

• Free-swinging at anchor – the default everywhere. Make sure to put out sufficient scope (at least 5:1 scope; more if deeper or blowing). Lagoon bottoms can be sand, coral, or mud; always try to anchor in sand patches to avoid damaging coral and to get better hold. A good tip: many lagoon anchorages have sandy shallows near the reef drop-off – anchor there rather than closer to shore where it might be too deep and gusty.
• Bow and stern anchors – rarely needed in the Societies except maybe in a narrow channel or if you want to stay very stationary (e.g. to avoid swinging into a reef behind you). In the Marquesas, this is common (bow anchor and a stern line to a palm tree or rock ashore to keep the boat from drifting in rolly bays). In the calm lagoons of the Societies, single anchor is fine most times.
• Mooring buoys – as described, if you use one, treat it as if you anchored (don’t leave the boat unattended for long until you’re confident it’s secure). Run a line through the loop (rather than just clipping on) for safety, and consider the mooring’s location relative to coral if it breaks. Many restaurant moorings are free if you patronize them (e.g., Bloody Mary’s in Bora had moorings, as does the Hibiscus Restaurant on Taha’a). It’s polite to check in with the establishment if you take one.

Finally, note that harbour fees are minimal in this region. Outside Papeete or marinas, you generally don’t pay to anchor or moor (except private moorings with fees). Some villages may charge a small fee for water or garbage disposal if offered. It’s appreciated if sailors support the local economy by buying from markets, eating out, or hiring local guides, since infrastructure is limited.

Practical Navigation Tips for French Polynesia

Sailing in French Polynesia is not difficult for competent sailors, but it does require attentiveness and respect for local conditions. Here are some practical navigation and safety tips to keep your cruise smooth:

• Charts and GPS: Always use up-to-date charts (paper and electronic). The main islands are well-charted (courtesy of French Hydrographic surveys), but note that some electronic charts in this region may have slight positional offsets. This means your GPS might show you on land when you’re clearly in a lagoon channel – so use GPS as a guide but rely on eyeball navigation when close to reefs. Many skippers use satellite imagery on tablets to complement charts, since the clear water and reefs show up well from above.
• Daylight Navigation: Plan your sailing so that reef passes and close-in navigating are done in daylight, ideally with the sun overhead or behind you. Midday light makes it much easier to read the water: coral heads appear as brown or dark spots, shallow sand as light turquoise, and deep water as deep blue. Early morning or late afternoon sun can cause glare that hides hazards. Night sailing inside lagoons or near reef areas is strongly discouraged – charter companies prohibit it. If you must do an overnight leg, it should be well offshore in open ocean (for example, one might sail overnight from Moorea to Raiatea, but that’s typically for deliveries; most leisure itineraries avoid night sails altogether).
• Use of Markers: Where provided, channel markers follow the IALA Region A system (same as Europe) – red to port, green to starboard when entering from seaward through a pass. Many passes and some lagoon channels are buoyed, but not all. Always trust your eyes over a missing marker, though; sometimes buoys drift or break. Range markers (leading lines) are installed at some reef passes (like Bora Bora’s Teavanui Pass) – aligning those can help you steer the safest course in. But again, nothing substitutes keeping a good lookout.
• Currents in Passes: As mentioned, lagoon passes can have strong currents. If the ocean swell and wind have been pumping water into the lagoon for days, expect a continuous outflow current (called a “runout”) through the pass, which can make your outbound trip fast but your inbound slog slower. Plan for this by arriving at passes a bit early to observe conditions. If waves are breaking across a pass or there’s a visible standing wave, do not attempt it. Wait for slack tide if possible. Tides in the Society Islands are small (often less than 1 foot range), so timing isn’t as straightforward as high/low tide – currents depend on the balance of water volume, which can lag tide times. Local knowledge or tide apps that estimate pass flow can be handy if you have them.
• Wind Effects: The trade winds in these high islands can be funnelled or disrupted by terrain. For example, on the leeward side of a tall island, you might experience swirling winds or sudden gusts (called “williwaws” in some places) coming down valleys. Meanwhile the windward (eastern) sides have a more steady breeze but also choppier water (outside the reef). When anchoring near high islands, note that a bay open to the east might have consistent wind blowing through (which can be comfortable as the boat aligns with wind and waves are blocked by the reef), whereas a bay on the lee side might be calmer wind initially but then hit by occasional gusty blasts or downdrafts. Secure your boat accordingly and give extra scope if gusts are likely.
• Sailing between Islands: The inter-island channels in the Societies are open ocean, but usually short enough to attempt in daylight. Follow this golden rule: depart early. Aim to leave by mid-morning (8–10 AM) for any passage, which usually ensures arrival by mid-afternoon at latest. This buffer is critical so you have ample daylight to enter your destination’s pass and find anchorage. For instance, if sailing from Bora Bora back to Raiatea, don’t leave at 2 PM thinking it’s only 4-5 hours – if wind or seas slow you down, you risk arriving at dusk (not good). Leave in the morning instead. Similarly, avoid too-ambitious direct routes; e.g., rather than going Bora Bora straight to Huahine (which is a long windward slog ~50 NM), break it up via Tahaa or Raiatea as a midpoint.
• Weather Monitoring: Weather in FP should be checked daily. VHF Channel 16 often has a morning report (in French and sometimes English) with forecasts. Alternatively, use apps (via mobile data or satellite) like Windy, PredictWind, or get forecasts from your charter base. Keep an eye out for any “Marine Special Bulletin” which would indicate stronger winds or a cyclone watch. In the dry season, the main concerns are strong trade wind bursts (Maraamu) – if one is forecast, you might plan to stay put in a secure anchorage that day rather than make a crossing. In the wet season, watch for depressions or converging weather that could indicate a tropical low forming.
• Coral Awareness: Polynesia’s reefs are a treasure – please help preserve them. Anchoring in sand is an absolute must (coral heads are fragile and slow-growing). Many lagoons have sandy shallows specifically to encourage anchoring without coral damage. If you see your anchor chain threatening to drag across a bommie as the boat swings, consider using a float on your chain to lift it off the bottom, or re-anchor further away. Also, when snorkelling or diving, avoid touching or standing on coral. Local regulations often forbid anchoring in certain sensitive areas (they’ll be marked on charts or by buoys) – adhere to these rules and use moorings provided.
• Communication and Emergencies: Carry a working VHF radio at all times. Channel 16 is monitored, though in very remote spots range can be an issue. The Polynesian Coast Guard (JRCC Tahiti) is based in Papeete and can coordinate rescue if needed – but you’re far from quick help compared to say the Med. So self-sufficiency and conservative sailing is key. There is also a volunteer network of cruisers (e.g., the Pacific Seafarers Net on HF radio) if doing longer legs. For most charters, emergencies are rare – just ensure you have the charter base’s contact and an understanding of how to handle basic issues (they’ll brief you on this).
• No-Discharge Zone: Treat these pristine waters with respect. Pumping waste directly is discouraged (and illegal in lagoons/near land). Use holding tanks and discharge well offshore beyond reef areas. Never throw trash overboard; dispose of waste properly in port (trash services exist on main islands). The ocean clarity here will remind you how vital this is.
• Wildlife and Environment: You’ll likely encounter friendly marine life – dolphins may dance at your bow, and you might even see whales (humpback whales visit during July–October, especially around the outer reefs of Moorea or Bora Bora). If you do, keep a safe distance and enjoy the show. Spearfishing is regulated and some lagoons are protected – check local guidelines or ask locals before fishing or foraging. Some areas have rahui (temporary bans) to let stocks recover.

By following these navigational tips and exercising good seamanship, you’ll find that French Polynesia’s challenges are easily managed and actually add to the adventure. There’s a unique thrill in piloting your own yacht through a coral-speckled lagoon to drop anchor off a deserted motu. The key is: take it slow, plan ahead, and don’t hesitate to ask for local advice (the charter base briefings are invaluable – they’ll point out any current navigational notices or tricky spots to avoid). With that, you can confidently explore this sailor’s paradise.

Chartering in French Polynesia – Options, Costs & Qualifications

Chartering a yacht in French Polynesia is a bit more involved than, say, renting a boat in the Mediterranean, but it’s quite straightforward if you plan in advance. Here’s what prospective charterers need to know:

Charter Types

Bareboat Charter: This is for those who want to skipper the boat themselves. You’ll rent the yacht only (no crew), and you and your friends/family operate it, responsible for navigation, sailing, cooking, etc. Bareboat is popular for experienced sailors who want the freedom to craft their own itinerary. In the Society Islands, common bareboats include 40–50 ft monohull sailboats and catamarans (cats are very popular here for their space and shallow draft). Bareboat gives you privacy and often the best value if you can handle the boat confidently.

Skippered Charter: If you lack experience in these waters or simply want a more relaxed time, you can hire a professional skipper to join you on the yacht (usually a local or an expert provided by the charter company). You still charter the boat privately, but the skipper will handle the sailing (and usually knows the best spots, can help with local language and tricks like picking up moorings). You and your group act as crew as much or as little as you like under the skipper’s guidance. This is a great option for first-timers to Polynesia – you learn from the skipper and get local insight. You’ll need an extra cabin for the skipper (or a berth) and you’re expected to cover their food during the trip, plus a daily fee for their service. Skipper fees in FP typically range around US$150–$200 per day.

Crewed Charter: This is the full-service option – you book a yacht that comes with a professional crew (skipper/captain, and often a chef or additional mate). Crewed charters are usually larger catamarans or luxury vessels. The crew handles all boat operations, cooking, cleaning, and often act as tour guides in the islands. Meals and drinks can be all-inclusive, and the itinerary can be personalized to your preferences. It’s like having your own floating hotel with staff. This is of course the priciest option, but if you’re in a group and split costs, it can be an incredible way to experience paradise effortlessly. Crewed charters can also venture further (since you have very experienced crew) and are great for those with no sailing knowledge or who desire luxury (honeymooners, for instance).

Charter Types

Here are the most popular charter types for reference. If you require a different type of charter, fill out our concierge form and we will discuss options with you.

Typical Charter Costs

Bareboat pricing: French Polynesia is a remote destination, and charter costs reflect that (somewhat higher than Mediterranean or Caribbean). As a ballpark:

• A week’s bareboat charter on a 40 ft monohull might start around $3,000–$4,000 USD in low season (approx £2,500–£3,300).
• Catamarans of 40–45 ft typically start around $5,000–$6,000 per week (low season) and can be $8,000+ in high season for newer or larger models.
• High season (June-August) and popular models can see higher prices. Also, longer charters might get a slight pro-rata discount (10 days, 2 weeks, etc.).

Keep in mind these base prices usually exclude running expenses. Additional costs may include:

• Fuel (engine and generator fuel used – depends on how much motoring you do, but budget for some).
• Water (some companies charge if you need to refill water tanks at base mid-charter).
• Insurance or damage waiver fees.
• Cleaning fee at end (often mandatory).
• Provisioning (food, drinks – you can buy yourself or sometimes order a provisioning package).
• National Park/Mooring fees – in FP, currently there’s no major cruising tax except certain protected areas might have small fees. The charter base will inform if any apply.

On a one-week bareboat, after adding extras, a couple or family might end up spending perhaps $5,000–$7,000 total on the boat portion. Split among 4–6 people, it compares with other exotic vacations per person.

Skippered add-on: As noted, add roughly $150/day for a skipper. So +$1,050 for a week (plus you feed them). Some skippers may also act as a guide and even cook simple meals, but they are not full crew.

Crewed charter pricing: For a premium catamaran (say 50+ ft with crew of 2 and up to 8 guests), expect $15,000+ per week as a starting point, going way upwards for ultra-luxury or larger yachts. Many crewed charters operate on a “plus expenses” basis, meaning food, bar, marina fees, etc., are added (sometimes via an Advanced Provisioning Allowance, APA). However, some offer all-inclusive packages especially for 7-night trips around Society Islands. Given FP’s remoteness, crewed charters tend to be expensive, but they deliver a once-in-a-lifetime experience (private chef dinners on deck under the stars, anyone?).

Note: because French Polynesia has a limited fleet (fewer charter yachts available) and high demand, it’s wise to book well in advance – even 1 year ahead for high season is not too early. Also, one-way charters are not common in Societies (most are round-trip Raiatea or occasionally one-way Tahiti to Raiatea with repositioning fee). The market is a bit smaller, so choice of boats might be less than, say, in Greece, but all the major charter companies (Moorings, Sunsail, Dream Yacht Charter, etc.) have presence, as well as some local operators.

Qualifications & Experience

To bareboat charter in French Polynesia, qualifications are required (as in most exotic locations). Charter companies will typically ask for:

• Sailing resume – detailing your sailing experience (as skipper, size of boats, where you’ve sailed, etc.).
• Skipper’s license – While not always strictly mandated by local law in FP as it is in some European countries, companies strongly prefer an internationally recognized cert. An RYA Day Skipper or ICC (International Certificate of Competence) is often requested. ASA 104 “Bareboat Cruising” cert or similar can also be acceptable for Americans. Basically, something that proves you’ve got the know-how.
• VHF license – Technically operators of the radio should hold a license (like the SRC for RYA holders). In practice, charter firms might not ask for it specifically, but it’s good to have.
• Experience level – French Polynesia is usually rated an intermediate cruising ground. For example, Sunsail classifies the Raiatea/Tahiti area as a “Level 2” (out of 3) difficulty. They expect you have experience with coastal navigation, can handle 20-knot winds and open-water passages, and are comfortable anchoring in various conditions. If your resume only has lake sailing or a couple of easy flotillas in calm areas, they might insist you hire a skipper. A general rule is having skippered a similar-sized yacht for at least a week, and some total miles under your belt (e.g. 100+ NM) makes them comfortable.

If you’re unsure whether you qualify, talk to the charter company – they might ask for a co-skipper with experience if you alone are borderline, or they’ll suggest taking a skipper for first day or two for a refresher. This is all about safety – the presence of reefs and the need for good anchoring skills mean they want competent hands on deck.

The good news is that you do not need any special local license or pilot – your international sailing license plus experience suffices. And once you’ve done a thorough briefing at the base (they will often go over charts with you, point out any hazards, and ensure you know how to use the boat’s GPS, etc.), you should be set. The base will usually provide a detailed welcome briefing and sometimes even accompany you for a short checkout sail in the lagoon to be sure you’re comfortable.

For skippered or crewed charters, no qualifications are needed from the guest side – you are essentially along for the ride (though learning is encouraged if you want to take the helm under supervision).

A quick note on insurance and documents: It’s wise to have travel insurance that covers sailing (including emergency evacuation, etc., given how remote FP is). The charter yacht will be insured by the company, but you’ll be liable for a deductible amount in case of damage (hence they offer damage waivers). Also, ensure your passports are valid (for visitors to FP, typically no visa is needed for EU/US for short stays, but you will get a 90-day entry stamp). The charter company will require a crew list and next-of-kin info; standard procedure.

Provisioning and Supplies

While not explicitly asked, it’s worth mentioning because first-time charterers in FP often wonder: How do we get food and supplies? Most charter bases (Raiatea, Tahiti) offer provisioning services – you can pre-order groceries and they’ll be on the boat when you arrive (for a fee). If you prefer to shop yourself, Uturoa on Raiatea has a good supermarket (Champignon or similar) and local produce/fish market. In Tahiti, there are large supermarkets (Carrefour etc.) for a full stock. Once you set sail, other islands have more limited options: Bora Bora has a couple of decent grocery stores in Vaitape (you can re-provision basic items, fresh baguettes, veggies, etc.), Huahine’s main store is smaller but sufficient for produce and basics, Moorea has a medium-sized store in Maharepa if you land there. Prices are higher than at home due to imports, especially for alcohol (except perhaps local beer Hinano which is reasonable). So plan your menu and stock up accordingly. Fresh fruit can often be bought from locals on the islands (don’t be surprised if a friendly local paddles over to your boat offering pamplemousse or coconuts for a small trade or fee!). Fishing is allowed outside the lagoons – many sailors troll a line on passages and might catch a tuna or mahi-mahi, which can supplement the larder nicely. Just note some lagoon fish carry ciguatera toxin – do not consume reef fish unless you’re certain it’s safe in that area. Stick to pelagic fish or what locals indicate is OK.

All these aspects – choosing your charter style, budgeting, qualifying, and planning supplies – are part of the adventure. Once the prep is done, you’ll be free to immerse yourself in the sailing experience of a lifetime.

Example 7-Day Sailing Itinerary – Society Islands (Raiatea to Raiatea)

To tie everything together, here’s a sample one-week itinerary around the Society Islands. This assumes a 7-day charter starting and ending in Raiatea, which is a common route for charter companies. It hits the highlights (Tahaa, Bora Bora, and Huahine) at a brisk but achievable pace for a 7-night trip. Of course, many variations exist – you could spend more time in one area and skip another – but this gives a flavour of what a “greatest hits” week could look like:

Day 1: Raiatea to Taha’a (Apu Bay) – After check-in at Raiatea’s base (morning briefings and boat inspection), set sail by midday for the short hop to Taha’a. It’s just a 2–3 NM sail inside the shared lagoon to reach Taha’a’s lovely Apu Bay on the west side. Grab a mooring at the Champon Pearl Farm in Apu Bay or anchor nearby. In the afternoon, you can dinghy ashore for a pearl farm tour (learn how Tahitian black pearls are cultivated and maybe purchase one as a souvenir) or stroll on land amidst vanilla plantations. In the evening, dine at Ficus Restaurant (book ahead; they often welcome yachties) for a Polynesian meal and perhaps a dance show, or simply enjoy a quiet dinner aboard under the stars. The anchorage here is calm and sheltered.

Day 2: Taha’a (Coral Garden) to Bora Bora – In the morning, sail north within the lagoon along Taha’a’s coast to Motu Tautau. Anchor off the motu or pick up a resort mooring – this is the spot for the famous Coral Garden drift snorkel. Spend a couple of hours swimming through the clear channels among colourful coral and reef fish – a trip highlight. By late morning, weigh anchor and exit Taha’a/Raiatea through the Passe Pai in the northwest. Set course for Bora Bora – roughly 20–25 NM downwind. Enjoy a glorious open ocean sail (likely on a broad reach in the trade winds). Keep an eye out for flying fish and perhaps dolphins on the way. You’ll approach Bora Bora by mid-afternoon, entering via Teavanui Pass. Once inside, head to the Bora Bora Yacht Club mooring field (just north of Vaitape). Secure a mooring for the night. You can go ashore at the Yacht Club for a sundowner cocktail and dinner – the sunsets here, with your boat gently bobbing and Bora’s peak in view, are magical.

Day 3: Bora Bora Lagoon Exploration – A full day dedicated to enjoying Bora Bora. In the morning, consider a short sail or motor inside the lagoon to the southeast corner near Anau. Anchor in sand off a beautiful motu. Here you can snorkel at the Manta Ray cleaning station first thing (mornings often have mantas gliding around feeding). Later, move towards the eastern side – perhaps anchor off Motu Pitiuu where the water is that electric blue and shallow. Have lunch on board with a picture-perfect backdrop. Afternoon options: arrange a visit to a local village or an island tour (some crews hire a taxi to take them around the island’s one road, visiting viewpoints and WWII cannons). Water activities are prime: maybe try paddle-boarding or kayak through the calm lagoon waters. If you fancy a bit of luxury, drop by Bloody Mary’s restaurant & bar at Matira Point (southwest side) – it has a dinghy dock and is an iconic spot for a tropical drink or dinner with sand between your toes. By evening, either return to your previous mooring or pick a quiet anchorage off one of the motus. With minimal light pollution, the stargazing over Bora Bora’s lagoon is phenomenal.

Day 4: Bora Bora to Taha’a (via Raiatea east side) – Depart Bora Bora in the morning, exiting the pass by 9–10 AM. Today is a beat (upwind sail) back towards Raiatea/Taha’a, so it could take ~5 hours depending on winds. Aim for the eastern side of Raiatea. You can enter via Teavapiti Pass (near Uturoa) or if conditions permit, via Passe Iriru on Raiatea’s east (closer for Huahine departure next day). A good stop this afternoon is Faaroa Bay on Raiatea. Anchor in the bay or pick up a public mooring there. Take the dinghy and venture up the Faaroa River, immersing yourself in mangrove-like surroundings with tropical flora – a peaceful adventure (bring bug spray just in case). Alternatively, if you prefer Taha’a again, you could tuck into Haamene Bay on Taha’a (east side) for the night – home to the well-known Chez Louise restaurant for a seafood feast. Either way, you are positioning yourself to hop to Huahine tomorrow. Enjoy a calm night amid the sounds of nature.

Day 5: Raiatea/Taha’a to Huahine – Set off early for the sail to Huahine (especially if coming from Taha’a, as you need to exit via Raiatea’s passes). This is about 25 NM eastward – likely a close reach or requiring some motoring if the wind is east-southeast. Arrive at Avamoa Pass (off Fare) around midday or early afternoon. Once inside Huahine’s lagoon, pick up a mooring or anchor near Fare village. Go ashore to explore this laid-back town: perhaps grab a fresh baguette or ice cream, visit the little shops, or have a sunset drink at the Huahine Yacht Club (a rustic bar, not a real yacht club but very sailor-friendly). After a few days of heavy sailing, you might appreciate a slower day – Huahine’s easy pace is perfect. If energy allows, you could arrange a late-afternoon island tour with a local guide to see the ancient marae and vanilla farms, or just take a swim off the boat. Evening at Fare is quiet; you’ll likely cook on board or eat at one of the few local eateries (fish burgers and poisson cru – Tahitian coconut ceviche – are island favorites).

Day 6: Huahine lagoons and return to Raiatea – Use the morning to enjoy Huahine a bit more. You could sail (inside the lagoon) down to Avea Bay at the southwest tip of Huahine Iti for a swim in stunning surroundings – it’s about 2 hours inside the lagoon with careful navigation around coral heads. Or, if you prefer not to move the big boat, perhaps rent a bicycle in Fare and pedal around the north end of the island, visiting scenic lookouts and a fish trap at Lake Fauna Nui. By early afternoon, it’s time to start heading back toward Raiatea for charter return. Depart Huahine through the pass by mid-afternoon (or earlier if coming from Avea Bay). It’s roughly a 4–5 hour downwind sail to Raiatea. Re-enter Raiatea’s lagoon (likely via the same pass as Day 5). Depending on time, you can spend the last night at Tahaa’s northwest motus (like Motu Mahaea) which is near the pass – a quiet anchorage with a nice beach, good if you got back a bit early and want a final snorkel. Alternatively, sail straight inside to Apooiti/Base area and anchor just outside the marina for the night. Enjoy a celebratory final dinner aboard, exchanging highlights of the trip, or treat yourselves at the Raiatea Lodge Hotel restaurant (accessible via dinghy in Apooiti).

Day 7: Raiatea (Charter Base) – A short hop back to the charter base in the morning (if you aren’t already there). Typically, you’ll need to have the yacht returned by 9 or 10 AM. So, an early start, quick sail along Raiatea’s coast to Uturoa/Apooiti, then fuel up at the base’s dock as required. The crew from the base will check the boat in. It’s farewell to your floating home! If you have time before your flight, you might visit Uturoa market for last-minute souvenirs or just relax on shore with the satisfaction of a successful voyage. Ia Orana and Nana (hello and goodbye in Tahitian) – until next time!

This itinerary is just one possibility. In practice, you should tailor each day to weather and mood – there’s flexibility to linger longer in one spot or shorten a leg if needed. For example, some sailors skip Huahine on a one-week trip to spend more time around Bora/Tahaa; others skip Bora to enjoy the solitude of Huahine and Raiatea’s secret spots. Distances in the Societies are such that you can generally change plans on the fly (with the base’s knowledge of where you plan to go). No matter the route, a week sailing these islands is a feast for the senses – you’ll experience thrilling sails across sapphire seas, calm nights under the Southern Cross, new friendships with islanders and fellow cruisers, and a deep appreciation for the wonders of French Polynesia.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

By following these simple guidelines, you’ll have rich interactions and leave a positive impression. French Polynesia’s people are as special as its scenery – many sailors leave with new friends made and perhaps a few words of Tahitian remembered.

Bon voyage – or as we’d say in Polynesia, Ia manuia te tere! (Have a good trip!). Your sailing adventure in French Polynesia will likely become one of the most cherished memories. From the first time you spot a distant atoll on the horizon to the final sunset behind Bora Bora, it’s pure magic. Fair winds and following seas!

Sources

• Yacht Warriors – “Tahiti Cruising Conditions” – (detailed sailing tips on winds, passes, anchoring)
• Sunsail Blog – “When is the best time to sail Tahiti?” – (seasonal insights)
• Windward Islands Yachting – “French Polynesia yacht charter cost” – (charter pricing details)
• Moorings – “Tahiti Itineraries and Base Information” – (itinerary ideas and sailing distances)
• SpinSheet Magazine – “Sailing French Polynesia’s Society Islands” – (first-hand cruising narrative)
• Pitufa Cruise Blog – “Best times to visit FP archipelagos” – (climate and weather patterns)
• Official Nautical Charts & Guides (SHOM French Hydrographic) – (navigation and reef pass information)
• Personal sailing logs and cruiser reports (various, 2020-2024) – (local knowledge on anchorages, moorings, cultural tips)