Sailing in the Maddalena Archipelago
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Sailing Guide to the Lavezzi Archipelago, Bonifacio & Maddalena Archipelago
Nestled between the southern tip of Corsica (France) and the northern shores of Sardinia (Italy), the Lavezzi Archipelago and its surrounding waters offer a stunning yet challenging sailing ground. Sheer limestone cliffs, turquoise bays, and dozens of granite islets await, but so do strong winds and unique local regulations.
This comprehensive guide will prepare you for sailing around the Lavezzi Islands, the historic harbour of Bonifacio, southern Corsica’s bays, and the pristine La Maddalena Archipelago across the Strait of Bonifacio. We cover everything from climate and winds to harbours, charter requirements, and etiquette – so you can voyage confidently in these beautiful but demanding waters.
Wind, Weather and Seasonal Considerations
Sailors in this region must be mindful of powerful winds and changing weather. The Strait of Bonifacio is notoriously windy, often funnelling even moderate breezes into near-gale conditions.
Winds from the west or east accelerate between Corsica and Sardinia, whipping up a short, choppy swell that can make passages rough.
The Mistral, a strong northwest wind, can roar through the strait whenever it blows in the Gulf of Lion, demanding respect and careful planning. Likewise, the Libeccio – a south-westerly wind prevalent in northern Corsica – frequently raises heavy seas and occasional violent gusts near headlands. In short, even in summer, it can feel like it’s always blowing a stiff breeze in Bonifacio Strait.
That said, the region also enjoys classic Mediterranean weather. Summers (June–August) are hot and dry (average 27–30 °C) with plenty of sunshine.
Typically, a steady sea breeze builds in the afternoons, providing great sailing wind. Outside of any Mistral or Libeccio episodes, summer seas are generally calm in the morning and moderate later in the day.
Spring and autumn bring milder temperatures (15–25 °C) and more variable winds. Early autumn (September) often remains warm with manageable winds, but by October sudden storms or rain become more common. Winter sailing is possible but challenging – frequent strong winds (including cold northerlies like the Tramontana) and chilly, wet weather make it a low season, and many facilities close. Most charter companies operate May through October, with June to early September being peak season for ideal conditions.
Key seasonal tips
In peak summer, expect very crowded ports and anchorages, so plan for early arrivals and advance bookings. Outside high season, there’s more space and tranquillity, but you’ll need to watch the forecast closely for gales. Always check local marine weather forecasts (VHF channels, apps, or harbour offices) daily – the Mistral can arrive quickly and build from a pleasant Force 4 to a Force 7+ by afternoon, catching the unwary off guard. If a major wind is forecast, it’s common for yachts to wait it out in port (Bonifacio’s marina often fills with crews pausing for a weather window). Patience and prudence with weather will keep your cruise safe and enjoyable.
Harbours and Anchorages in the Region
Despite its wild nature, this area has a range of harbours and anchorages – from full-service marinas to remote coves. Below we outline the main ones, along with available facilities:
Bonifacio (Southern Corsica)
Description: Bonifacio is a spectacular natural harbour carved into limestone cliffs on Corsica’s southern tip. The medieval citadel town perched above makes for a dramatic arrival. The narrow fjord-like inlet leads to a well-protected marina basin that shelters boats from almost all wind and swell. Bonifacio is the nearest Corsican port to Sardinia (just 10 NM from the Maddalena islands) and a popular stop for yachts awaiting a calm crossing.
Facilities
The Port de Plaisance de Bonifacio offers around 400 berths with full services – water, electricity, showers, Wi-Fi, fuel dock, and various repair services. Numerous waterfront restaurants, shops, and cafes line the quays, and provisions are available in town. In summer (June–Sept), advance booking is highly recommended as space fills quickly. The marina staff will often guide you to a berth; expect Mediterranean-style mooring (stern-to dock). Bonifacio’s berths use mooring lines attached to the quay – have your bow lines and fenders ready, and be prepared to reverse in.
Anchoring inside the harbour is very restricted (only allowed in designated spots with permission) [cruiserswiki.org], so plan on using the marina or mooring buoys. A few organised moorings exist just outside the marina entrance (in Calanque de la Catena), which can be used for a fee when available.
Highlights
Don’t miss exploring Bonifacio’s clifftop old town and citadel once moored – a short, steep walk from the port leads you to stunning views over the strait. The town is rich in history, restaurants, and quaint alleys. Bonifacio is also a practical place to refuel and refill water tanks before venturing to remote anchorages.
Southern Corsica Anchorages (e.g. Sant’Amanza, Rondinara, Porto Vecchio)
Beyond Bonifacio, southern Corsica’s coastline offers several beautiful bays:
- Baie de Sant’Amanza (Sant’Amanza Bay): Lying a few miles east of Bonifacio, this large bay is well protected from most winds and valued as a peaceful anchorage. In summer, a mooring buoy field is maintained here – visitors are encouraged to pick up a buoy to protect the seabed. If you must anchor, do so in sand patches in the bay’s centre, as anchoring on Posidonia seagrass is forbidden by law. Facilities at Sant’Amanza are minimal (no village on the shore, just beaches), so ensure you have what you need. It’s a tranquil stop for swimming and relaxing when conditions are calm.
- Plage de Rondinara: Further east toward Porto-Vecchio, Rondinara is a famously gorgeous horseshoe-shaped bay with turquoise water and a sandy beach. It has some mooring buoys in season and good holding in sand if you anchor. It’s roughly halfway between Bonifacio and Porto-Vecchio, making it a nice day-stop or alternate overnight anchorage in settled weather. There are seasonal beach bars ashore and sometimes a small provisions shop, but no port infrastructure.
- Porto-Vecchio: This is a substantial town and harbour on Corsica’s south-east coast (about 15–20 NM from Bonifacio). Porto-Vecchio’s marina is modern and spacious, accommodating yachts up to ~50m with full services (water, power, fuel, repairs). It can serve as a charter base or a refuge if Bonifacio is full. The town is lively with many amenities (shops, supermarkets, restaurants) and makes an excellent start or end point for a sailing itinerary. While slightly outside the immediate Bonifacio/Lavezzi area, Porto-Vecchio is worth mentioning for its facilities and as an alternative harbour in strong westerly winds (as it’s more sheltered from west swells).
- West of Bonifacio: On Corsica’s southwest coast (west of Bonifacio entrance), anchorages are fewer due to rugged terrain. One option in settled weather is Anse de Ficajola or Baie de Roccapina further along the coast, but these are open roadsteads only for fair conditions. Most sailors stick to the east side (Sant’Amanza/Piantarella side) when in the Bonifacio area, since the west coast is directly exposed to the Mistral and westerlies.
Lavezzi Archipelago (Corsican Waters)
The Îles Lavezzi lie just a few miles southeast of Bonifacio. This archipelago of granite islets and reefs is part of France’s protected Réserve Naturelle des Bouches de Bonifacio, featuring crystal-clear water and rich marine life. The scenery is breathtaking – think white boulders, tiny sandy coves, and azure lagoons – but navigation here requires sharp attention. Numerous rocks (often just awash) and shoals dot the area, so consult charts and keep a bow watch when entering coves.
Anchorages & Mooring
The main island, Lavezzu (Lavezzi), has a couple of small bays on its south side that yachts use in calm weather. Cala Lazarina and Cala Giunco (also called Cala di u Ghiuncu) are popular little anchorages with sandy bottoms (3–5 m depth) offering decent shelter from northerly or easterly winds. Be aware of rocks around the edges and enter slowly.
The authorities have installed mooring buoys for daytime tripper boats in these coves; after around 16:00 the tour boats leave, and visiting yachts sometimes take those buoys overnight. Just remember to vacate them early next morning before the trip boats return – park rangers will check at around 10:00 that private boats aren’t occupying the tour buoys. If anchoring, you must stay further out from the beach (anchoring is forbidden within 300 feet (~100 m) of shore in some zones to protect swimmers and seagrass). Always avoid Posidonia meadows – the water is so clear you can usually see the dark patches of grass vs. lighter sand.
Elsewhere in the Lavezzi reserve, anchoring is tightly regulated and sometimes prohibited in certain zones. The French authorities periodically update rules, but as a rule of thumb: use existing moorings if available, keep well clear of reefs, and never drop anchor on vegetation. Also note there are no facilities on these islands – they are uninhabited (except for park staff or a small military presence). Bring all your supplies and take all waste back with you (leave no litter). Lavezzi is best visited as a day excursion in good weather. If winds pick up or shift southward, the anchorages can become untenable – have a backup plan to return to a safer harbour.
Cavallo Island
Part of the Lavezzi group, Cavallo is a privately owned island that has an exclusive feel. It is one of the only inhabited islands here, with luxury villas and a small upscale resort. Cavallo has a tiny marina (Porto di Cavallo) with limited berths (and very high fees). Booking well in advance is essential if you plan to berth there, and even then, availability is not guaranteed. Basic marina services (water, electricity) are available, and there are a couple of restaurants ashore serving the villa residents and yacht guests.
Outside the marina, a few designated anchorage spots exist, but much of the surrounding sea is a protected zone – so be extremely cautious where you drop anchor. Cavallo’s allure is its secluded atmosphere; just be sure to respect the privacy of residents and any restricted areas. For most sailors, Cavallo is a brief curiosity stop rather than a regular port of call, given the costs and rules.
La Maddalena Archipelago (Northern Sardinia)
Across the Strait of Bonifacio to the south lies Italy’s La Maddalena Archipelago National Park – a cluster of seven main islands (La Maddalena, Caprera, Spargi, Budelli, Razzoli, Santa Maria, Santo Stefano) and many smaller islets. This area is famed for its emerald waters and pink-sand beaches, and is a highlight of any cruise in the region.
The Maddalena islands are largely wild and protected; Italian park regulations apply here (see Etiquette & Rules section). Still, there are a few settlements and plenty of services on the largest island, La Maddalena, making it a convenient base for exploration.
La Maddalena Town (Cala Gavetta Harbour)
The main town of the archipelago, on La Maddalena Island itself, has a substantial harbour (Cala Gavetta) and marina facilities. The port can host hundreds of yachts on med-moor berths, split between a municipal marina and private pontoons. Expect assistance from ormeggiatori (dockhands) when arriving – Italian marinas usually have staff to guide you in.
Water, electricity, fuel, and some repair services are available. The town offers supermarkets, shops, restaurants, and even a chandlery, making it a great resupply stop. La Maddalena town is lively in summer evenings and has a charming Italian vibe (it was historically a naval base, now a tourist hub).
Note: This is a port of entry into Italy if you were coming from France, but within the EU it’s usually just a formality (no hard border to cross these days).
Palau (Sardinian mainland)
Just across a narrow channel from La Maddalena town is Palau on the Sardinian mainland. Palau is the ferry port connecting the islands to Sardinia proper. It also has a good marina and yacht harbour frequently used by charter companies. If you need a larger town or are heading south along Sardinia’s coast, Palau is convenient. Facilities mirror La Maddalena’s (fuel, water, provisioning) and it’s very well protected from most winds due to its location behind La Maddalena island.
Secondary Marinas
There are a few smaller harbours in the area – for instance, Porto Massimo (a private marina on the northeast of La Maddalena island), and some marina pontoons on Caprera and Santo Stefano (these often cater to local boats or specific clubs). Marina di Caprera exists near the bridge connecting La Maddalena and Caprera, and a famous sailing school operates in Porto Palma bay (Caprera). However, visiting yachts typically stick to La Maddalena town or Palau for mooring, as those have the most transient berths.
Anchorages in the Maddalena Islands
The national park contains dozens of idyllic coves. Some favourites include:
- Porto della Madonna: a stunning lagoon area sandwiched between the islands of Budelli, Razzoli, and Santa Maria. It’s known for unreal turquoise shallows. You can anchor in sand patches here for a lunchtime swim stop. However, this is extremely popular – in peak season it’s filled with day-trip boats. Anchoring is allowed only by day; overnight stays must be at mooring buoys or not at all (see regulations). Also, Budelli’s famous Spiaggia Rosa (Pink Beach) is off-limits to landing – admire from a distance.
- Cala Corsara (Spargi): A postcard-perfect cove on Spargi Island with white sand and rock formations. Good holding in sand and well sheltered from westerly winds. Daytime only.
- Cala Coticcio (Caprera): Nicknamed “Tahiti” for its beauty, this small bay on Caprera’s east side has recently had access limits (to protect it from overtourism, authorities require visitors to book a guide to go ashore). Yachts can anchor nearby in calm conditions – but it’s tiny and only for a few boats. Check the latest rules if you plan to visit Cala Coticcio.
- Other Coves: Cala Garibaldi (Caprera), Cala Granara (Spargi), Cala Santa Maria (Santa Maria Island) – the list goes on. Each offers a slice of paradise in fair weather. Important: Anchoring in the park is generally permitted only during the day in designated areas. As of recent regulations, overnight anchoring is largely prohibited within 300m of these shores during summer, meaning you cannot just stay at anchor in these lovely coves for the night.
For overnight stops around the Maddalena islands, your options are either to go into a harbour (La Maddalena or Palau) or use an official mooring buoy provided by the park. The park authority maintains mooring buoys in certain bays (they are white mooring buoys, often with weight limits and boat length limits – typically not for yachts over 15m). By rule, from 9pm to 8am you may only stay if tied to an authorised park buoy. No private anchoring overnight is allowed (enforced with fines up to ~€450) [nauticassistance.com]. These measures aim to protect the marine environment (especially seagrass and water quality) and reduce chaos in the park. So plan your evenings accordingly: either reserve a buoy (if your yacht fits and one is free) or retreat to port.
Santa Teresa Gallura
Before leaving the topic of harbours, it’s worth mentioning Santa Teresa Gallura, on Sardinia’s northern tip facing Bonifacio. This is a well-equipped marina (about 700 berths, accommodating boats up to ~30–35m) tucked in a cove called Porto Longonsardo. Santa Teresa is an excellent all-weather harbour – well sheltered from westerlies by the land (though open to easterlies). It has fuel, water, maintenance facilities (even a 100t travel lift), and plenty of eateries nearby.
Customs clearance can sometimes be done here if needed. Many sailors use Santa Teresa as either a first/last port when crossing between Corsica and Sardinia, or as a refuge if conditions are too rough in the strait. The town is pleasant and there’s a beach just outside the marina. If you prefer an Italian port instead of Bonifacio, Santa Teresa is the alternative just across the water.
Chartering in the Region
Chartering a yacht is one of the best ways to experience this area, and numerous companies offer bareboat and skippered charters in both Corsica and Sardinia. Here’s what to expect from chartering locally:
- Charter Bases: On the Corsican side, charters may start from Ajaccio or Propriano (on the west coast) or Porto-Vecchio (south-east), with itineraries including Bonifacio and Lavezzi. Bonifacio itself, while popular as a stop, is not a major charter base (it’s small and very busy), but some smaller operators might allow pick-up there. On the Sardinian side, major charter bases exist in the north-east of Sardinia (around the Costa Smeralda). Ports like Olbia, Portisco, Cannigione, and La Maddalena/Palau are common start points for a Maddalena/Bonifacio itinerary. For example, Sunsail and others have bases near Olbia/Portisco, which is about a day’s sail from the archipelago. Check with your chosen company which base suits your route.
- Types of Boats: You’ll find a full range of charter yachts: popular choices are 35–50 ft monohull sailing yachts and 38–52 ft sailing catamarans. Catamarans are in high demand here for their stability and shallow draft (great for creeping into anchorages). Motor yachts and RIBs (rigid inflatable boats) are also available for those interested in power cruising or day trips – particularly from Sardinian ports, you can rent smaller boats to explore the islands. A few companies even offer crewed luxury yachts and classic gulets for bespoke charters. Bareboat charters are common if you have the experience (see next section for license requirements), or you can hire a skipper or crew if you prefer a guided experience.
- Charter Experience Level: This region is generally considered an intermediate to advanced sailing area by most charter operators. For instance, some companies rate northern Sardinia/Southern Corsica as a “Level 3” (challenging) destination, meaning they expect you to have solid sailing experience (e.g. 20 days or ~400 nautical miles as skipper). The strong winds, rocky hazards, and need for confident boat handling (med mooring in tight marinas, etc.) make it less suitable for absolute beginners. That said, a skilled intermediate sailor can absolutely enjoy a bareboat here, especially in July–August when weather is generally settled. If you’re a novice, consider taking a skipper for the first few days or joining a flotilla for added support (though flotillas are less common here than in, say, Greece). Another option is to charter in shoulder season (June or September) when winds are a bit lighter than spring, but ports are less frantic than August.
- Charter Availability: Because this area is popular, yachts can book up early for peak season. It’s wise to reserve your charter 6–12 months in advance for July or August start dates. Prices peak in high summer; better deals can be found in May, early June, or late September. If chartering in spring or late autumn, note that the weather may be more unpredictable and not all companies operate year-round (some haul their fleets out by October).
Sample Itinerary
A typical one-week bareboat charter from, say, Portisco (NE Sardinia) might include: sailing to La Maddalena, exploring Spargi/Budelli, crossing to Bonifacio for a night, enjoying Lavezzi Islands by day, perhaps a stop in Santa Teresa, then back around to Caprera and the base.
Another itinerary from Corsica’s side might be: Bonifacio -> Maddalena -> up to Porto Cervo (Costa Smeralda) -> back via Lavezzi -> Rondinara -> Porto-Vecchio.
There are many possibilities in this compact cruising area. One advantage is distances are short – islands and ports are only a few hours apart – so you can customise the journey to weather and whim, without long open-water passages.
Required Certifications and Licenses
To charter a yacht here (or anywhere in the Mediterranean), you will need to show certain skipper qualifications. Both France and Italy require operators of pleasure boats to have appropriate licenses, and charter companies will insist on them. Generally, one crew member will be designated as the skipper (captain) and must present evidence of competence, and a second crew member should ideally be experienced as well (some companies like to see a co-skipper with at least basic skills).
- Bareboat Charter Qualifications: The minimum certification is usually an ICC (International Certificate of Competence) or an equivalent national qualification such as the RYA Day Skipper (Practical) certificate. An ICC is an easy one-stop document that’s widely recognized in both France and Italy. If you’re British, the RYA Day Skipper license itself is accepted by many charter companies (though technically UK skippers often convert it to an ICC). Other equivalents: ASA 104 Bareboat (USA) or any national coastal skipper license should suffice. In short, you must prove you know how to handle a sailing yacht.
- VHF Radio License: In many European countries (including Italy and Croatia), the skipper or someone on board should also hold a Marine VHF Radio Operator’s certificate. It’s often checked during charter paperwork. France’s rules are a bit more relaxed for locals, but charter firms still prefer you have one. If you have an RYA Short Range Certificate or SRC (or other country’s VHF license), bring it along.
- Experience Log: Besides the formal piece of paper, expect the charter company to ask for a sailing résumé or log of experience. They want to ensure you’ve skippered a boat similar in size to the one you’re renting and in similar conditions. As mentioned, this area isn’t great for first-time skippers – most companies will want to see that you’ve chartered elsewhere or have ample sea time. Sunsail, for example, requires ICC/Day Skipper plus that you’ve been skipper for at least 20 days before, for Sardinia charterssunsail.com. It’s not just a box-ticking exercise; it’s about safety for you and the boat.
- Hiring a Skipper: If you lack the required certification or feel unsure, you can always charter with a professional skipper. This adds to the cost and reduces privacy, but you gain local knowledge and stress-free sailing. Skippers in this region will typically speak English, know all the best spots, and handle the tricky bits (like Med-mooring in a crosswind). It’s a great option for less experienced groups or those who want a more relaxed holiday.
- Insurance and Documents: Make sure your boating certificates are originals (not photocopies) and in date. Also carry your passport (for marinas), a credit card for the security deposit, and any charter contract printouts or booking info. Charter yachts come with insurance (usually you leave a damage deposit or take insurance waiver). Check what coverage you have, especially if sailing to both France and Italy – the charter company will ensure the boat is cleared for multiple countries, but it’s good to confirm.
In summary, plan ahead to have the correct qualifications. It can be disappointing to arrive and not be allowed to take the boat because your paperwork isn’t in order. Fortunately, ICCs and Day Skipper certs are widely obtainable. If you need to, you could do a quick course or assessment before your trip. Once you have the credentials, you’re free to enjoy this sailing paradise.
Local Etiquette, Regulations and Environmental Rules
Sailing in a new area isn’t just about navigation – it’s also about understanding local customs and rules. In the Lavezzi–Maddalena region, much of the etiquette revolves around protecting the environment and respecting regulations, given the presence of marine reserves and heavy boat traffic. Here are the key points of conduct:
- Marine Protected Areas: Both the Lavezzi Archipelago (French side) and the Maddalena Archipelago (Italian side) are protected natural reserves. Anchoring is strictly controlled. As mentioned, do not anchor on seagrass meadows (Posidonia) anywhere – it’s illegal and damaging. Use mooring buoys if provided, or anchor only in sand in designated zones. In Lavezzi, you’ll see park ranger RIBs patrolling; they may inform you if you’re in an off-limits spot. In La Maddalena Park, you are required to obtain a permit to sail and anchor in the park boundaries (generally the whole island group) during the peak season. This permit comes with a fee (calculated per day and by boat length, often a few euros per metre per day) and can be obtained online via the park’s website or at a park office. Have your permit sorted out before cruising the islands – the Italian Coast Guard does check. Also note the specific rule: no overnight anchoring in the park outside of mooring buoys. Plan to leave the park waters by evening or be on a rented buoy.
- Speed and Wake: When near beaches, swimming areas, or inside harbours/anchorages, adhere to speed limits (usually 3–5 knots) and keep your wash down. The waters around Bonifacio and Maddalena can be full of snorkelers, divers, and kayakers. It’s courteous and safe to go slowly when near others. Italian law requires staying 300m from beaches when moving at speed; in France, similarly keep distance from bathing zones (often marked by yellow buoys).
- Right of Way and Narrow Passages: The Strait has a lot of ferry traffic – big car ferries run between Santa Teresa and Bonifacio frequently. Give them a wide berth and avoid the middle of the shipping lane if possible when crossing. In narrow channels (like entering Bonifacio’s fjord or channels between Maddalena islets), stick to the right side of the fairway and be vigilant. Local tour boats may zip around – stay alert and don’t assume they will follow strict rules if they’re on a tight schedule with tourists.
- Harbour Etiquette: In French ports like Bonifacio, hail the capitainerie on VHF (usually channel 9 or 16/12 as indicated) when approaching to request a berth. They often assign berths over radio or direct you to wait. In Italian ports like La Maddalena or Santa Teresa, calling on VHF 74 or 16 can get you the ormeggiatori or marina office. Often, though, marina staff will wave you in as you arrive. Follow their directions carefully – med mooring is a coordinated dance. Have your lines and fenders ready beforehand to avoid delays. It’s good etiquette to rig a stern line on each quarter and a bow line ready to take the mooring. If someone helps catch your lines, a polite “grazie” or “merci” (or just “thank you”) goes a long way. Once tied up, try to avoid excess noise or music in marinas after a reasonable hour; crews here tend to socialize on deck at night but keep it considerate.
- Respect for Locals and Other Sailors: The Maddalena and Bonifacio communities welcome sailors, but certain behaviours can cause friction. For example, dropping anchor too close to someone else’s boat in a quiet bay is a faux pas – give ample swinging room. If you need to attach a long line to shore (a common Med technique to avoid swinging in tight coves), ensure you’re not crossing someone else’s line or blocking access. Do not trespass on private docks (like on Cavallo or near villas). And always take your garbage to proper disposal on shore; never leave litter or dump waste in the sea. Black water (sewage) discharge is illegal in these parts when near land – use holding tanks and pump out at marinas or at least go well offshore to empty.
- Wildlife and Conservation: You may encounter dolphins, sea birds, and other wildlife. Admire them but keep distance; disturbance can stress animals. Spearfishing and fishing are restricted in the reserves – check local rules if you plan to fish. Generally, in the French reserve, all fishing might be banned; in the Italian park, some areas allow catch-and-release or local fishing only. It’s best as a visitor to focus on snorkelling and photography rather than fishing here.
- Dress Code and Culture: On land, casual attire is fine almost everywhere, but if you visit churches or certain historic sites in town, have a shirt and proper shorts/trousers (not just swimwear). The vibe in most harbours is very sailor-friendly – you’ll see everything from salty sea-dogs to luxury yacht guests. Just be friendly and you’ll find people helpful. If you speak a bit of French (in Corsica) or Italian (in Sardinia), locals appreciate the effort, though English is widely understood in nautical circles.
In essence, tread lightly and respectfully. This is a pristine area that authorities are keen to preserve. By following their rules – no-go zones, permits, buoy usage, waste rules – and being courteous to others on the water, you’ll ensure these islands remain a paradise for years to come. Breaking rules can result in fines (especially the anchoring or permit violations), and it also gives sailors a bad name, so it’s not worth it. The good news is that the regulations, while strict, enhance your experience: thanks to them, the water is clear, the seagrass thrives (ensuring good fish life), and the anchorages don’t turn into chaos each night.
Mooring Styles and Techniques
Understanding the typical mooring styles in this region will save you a lot of stress. In Mediterranean sailing, you’ll often encounter unfamiliar mooring setups if you’re used to Northern European or American marinas. Here’s what to prepare for around Corsica and Sardinia:
- Med Mooring (Stern-to Berthing): In nearly all marinas and many town quays here, boats are moored stern-to. This means you will back your boat up to the dock and secure your stern with lines to shore, while your bow is held by either an anchor or a laid mooring line. In Bonifacio and most marinas in the area, laid mooring lines (sometimes called “lazy lines”) are provided. A marinero will likely hand you a slimy line as you back in – this line is attached to a heavy weight or chain on the seabed. You walk it forward to your bow and tension it on a bow cleat; this keeps your bow in place. Meanwhile, your stern is secured with two lines to bollards or rings on the quay. The key is to come in slowly and under control. Practice your reverse steering (prop walk can be tricky in a crosswind) and have crew ready with fenders and lines on both sides, since you often squeeze between two other boats. Tip: Rigging a temporary midships line to the quay first can help stabilize while you sort the bow line. If the harbour instead uses anchor mooring (less common here), you’d drop your anchor at a designated point in the harbour entrance, then reverse in while paying out chain, and belay stern lines ashore. Always ask or observe what system is in use. Bonifacio’s marina staff, for example, will usually take your bow lines to attach to their mooring system – you won’t be using your anchor there.
- Alongside Mooring: Side-on docking (like you’d do on a hammerhead pier) is rare for visiting yachts in peak season, because space is limited. You might get alongside if directed by harbourmasters in shoulder season when fewer boats are around, or at fuel docks. In small fishing harbours or some town quays, if room allows, they might let you lie alongside temporarily. But plan for stern-to as the default.
- Mooring Buoys: As covered earlier, you’ll encounter mooring buoys in the nature reserves (white buoys in places like Sant’Amanza, Lavezzi, and La Maddalena). To use these, approach slowly head-to-wind, have a crew member on the bow with a boathook, and snag the buoy’s rope or ring. Pass your own line through and secure it back on your bow cleat (or twin bow cleats for stability). In some fields, park staff might even assist. These buoys are often first-come, first-served (except those reserved for tripper boats during day). Make sure the buoy is rated for your boat’s size. One quirk: in La Maddalena, mooring buoys can be reserved or paid via the park system – check the procedure when you get your permit. Only park-authorised buoys can be used for overnight stays there.
- Anchoring with a Line Ashore: In cosy coves (for example, some nooks in the Maddalena or Corsican coast), you might anchor and then take a stern line ashore to a rock to prevent swinging. This “Tarzan mooring” or half Med-mooring is common in the Med when you want to pack multiple boats in a small bay or keep your boat from drifting too close to cliffs. To do this: drop anchor at the entrance of the cove, then reverse in toward the head of the cove. Once you’re a safe short distance from the shore (but not too close!), have a crew member swim or dinghy a rope to a sturdy rock or through an eye bolt (some popular coves have pre-fixed rings in rocks). Tie the rope securely around the rock and back to your boat’s stern cleat. Then tension the anchor chain and stern line so the boat is held in place. This technique is optional in this region – only use it if needed, and do not nail into rocks or damage vegetation. Use existing rings or big boulders. Remember to untie and retrieve your rope (never leave it behind).
- Tidal Consideration: Tides are negligible in the Med (maybe 20–30 cm in Corsica), so you generally don’t need to adjust lines for tide. However, be mindful of swell and wash. Ferries or sudden wind can cause surges in harbours. So even when med-moored, leave a bit of slack in your stern lines so the boat can ride small surges without yanking the cleats. Conversely, keep the bow mooring line tight enough to not drift back into the quay. It’s a balance – check your lines after initial tie-up.
- Communication: When arriving at a marina, have fenders out and make your approach clear. Fly your guest flag (courtesy flag) for the country you are in – not really a mooring tip, but good etiquette. In France, fly the French tricolor under your starboard spreader; in Italy, the Italian tricolore. This signals you respect local customs. When calling on VHF, identify your boat name, length, and request (e.g., “Bonifacio port, Bonifacio port, this is Yacht Seastar, 12 metres, request berth for one night, over.”). They may respond in English or French/Italian, but English is usually fine.
- Fuel Docks: Fuel stations are present in Bonifacio, Santa Teresa, La Maddalena, and Palau. Approach these like any alongside berth, but be prepared for tight quarters and queues in August. Often an attendant will help with lines. Turn off all engines and flames while fuelling and have fenders ready; the usual precautions apply.
In summary, be ready for Mediterranean mooring styles. If you’re unfamiliar, it’s wise to brief your crew in advance or even practice picking up a mooring buoy and stern-to approaches in a quiet spot before doing it in a busy harbour. Once you get the hang of stern-to docking, you might even enjoy it – it’s very social, as your cockpit faces the quay where people stroll by, making it easy to chat with neighbours or step off for a gelato! Just remember to secure things properly and anticipate the wind’s influence when manoeuvring in reverse. The old saying “go slow, make fast” applies: slow boat speed, and fast action with lines when needed.
Differences Between Sailing in Corsica vs Sardinia
Although the Strait of Bonifacio region is relatively small, you are sailing between two countries and a variety of locales. What differences might you notice between the French (Corsican) side and the Italian (Sardinian) side, and do they require different approaches or skillsets? Here are a few distinctions:
- Language and Communication: On the Corsican side, French is the official language (though Corsican language is also spoken by locals, everyone understands French). On the Sardinian side, Italian is spoken. For most visiting sailors, English is sufficient in marinas and with officials in both countries, as they are used to international yachts. However, marina offices in France might greet you with “Bonjour” and in Italy with “Buongiorno.” Being polite and learning a couple of phrases in each is appreciated. Practically, all radio communications for harbours can be done in English, but you might hear chatter in French/Italian between local boats. Don’t be intimidated – use standard marine voice procedure and you’ll be fine.
- Formalities: Both France and Italy are in the EU/Schengen, so for an EU sailor there’s no real difference in border formalities – you can cruise freely. If you are coming from outside the EU, Bonifacio is a Port of Entry to clear into France, and Santa Teresa/La Maddalena would be where to clear into Italy (if needed). But within leisure boating, these formalities are rarely enforced at the pleasure-craft level unless you ask. A difference to note is the permit in La Maddalena Park (Italy) vs. no permit needed for the Bonifacio Reserve (France). Italy has a bit more bureaucracy for using the national park (as discussed, you pay a fee for a permit online or at the office). In France’s reserve, there is no entry fee; they just enforce rules on anchoring/fishing.
- Mooring and Marina Style: French marinas (e.g., Bonifacio, Porto-Vecchio) are run by a Capitainerie (harbourmaster’s office), often municipal. You’ll typically deal directly with that office for berth assignment and payment. In Italy, many marinas are privately operated or run by companies/consortia of ormeggiatori. For example, in La Maddalena, multiple operators run different sets of pontoonscruiserswiki.org. This means in Italy, prices might be a bit more negotiable or variable, and service levels can differ. Generally, both sides offer help with lines, but the Italian side is almost always proactive in having staff wave you in and catch your lines (it’s a point of pride). French harbours often assume you know what you’re doing and allow you to sort yourself out after pointing you to a berth. This is a slight cultural difference – neither is better or worse, just be ready to be more self-sufficient in a French marina and to possibly tip a helpful marinero in an Italian one (a €5-10 tip for someone who expertly squeezed you into a tight spot is a nice gesture).
- Navigation and Charts: Corsica charts will be in French/English, Sardinia charts in Italian/English, but all use international symbols. One minor difference: some lights and marks in Italy might be written in Italian (e.g., “Scoglio” for rock, “Secca” for shoal) – learning these terms can help interpret local sailing directions. The cardinal and lateral buoys follow the same IALA Region A system in both countries (red to port entering harbours, etc.), so no change there. Distances in Italy are in kilometres on land, but at sea we all use nautical miles anyway. If using paper charts, note that you might need a set for France and a set for Italy – though an Imray or Navionics chart will usually cover both sides seamlessly.
- Weather Information: Météo-France provides forecasts for Corsica waters (including Bonifacio) in French and English via bulletins. Italy’s Meteorological services and the Navy provide forecasts for Sardinian waters. You can access both – for instance, on VHF you might get the French forecast on one channel and the Italian on another. But nowadays, apps like Windy or Windfinder don’t care about borders. One thing to note is local names: an Italian forecast might mention “Maestrale” (their word for Mistral) or “Grecale” (NE wind) whereas a French one might just say “NW force 6-7”. If you learn the wind names (Mistral, Libeccio, Levante, Ponente, Scirocco, Maestrale/Tramontane), you’ll understand any local reports. In practice, both sides broadcast in English as well at set times.
- Costs: Expect marina fees to be relatively high in this popular area, on both sides. Bonifacio in peak season can charge a substantial nightly fee (for a 40ft yacht, easily €70-100+ in August). Italian marinas like Santa Teresa or La Maddalena might be similar or slightly less. Anchoring is free, of course, but in Italy you might be paying for a park permit instead. Provisioning costs: Corsica (using the Euro) has prices similar to mainland France – perhaps a bit higher on some imported goods because it’s an island. Sardinia also uses the Euro; costs in supermarkets are generally slightly lower than in Corsica. Fuel prices could differ by a few cents between France and Italy; sometimes one is cheaper – ask locals if you care to save a little, but differences aren’t huge.
- Vibe and Culture: Corsica has a distinct identity – French, yet with its own Corsican flair. Sardinia likewise is Italian with a unique Sard presence. As a sailor, you’ll mostly interact in tourist-oriented settings where the cultural differences are subtle: you’ll notice it in food (French baguettes and cheeses in Corsica vs Italian pasta and gelato in Sardinia!). The cruising community spans both sides, so there’s a common sailing culture of helpfulness. Some sailors prefer the Italian side for its laid-back hospitality, others love the French side for its chic villages and cuisine – you can enjoy both in one trip. In terms of natural scenery, Corsica’s south coast is limestone cliffs and deep bays, whereas Sardinia’s north is granite boulders and shallow lagoons – each requiring a slightly different eye for anchorages. Corsica’s bays (like Sant’Amanza, Rondinara) are more open but with good sand patches. Sardinia’s island coves are smaller and often surrounded by reefs – demanding tighter anchoring skills.
Do these differences require different skillsets? Marginally. A prudent sailor will adapt easily: tune your ear to both languages, be ready to fill out a permit online for Italy, practise that stern-to docking, and keep an eye on the chart for those myriad rocks. Fundamentally, the same seamanship principles apply on either side of the invisible line in the strait. If anything, the mix of experiences will make you a more versatile sailor. One day you’re buying croissants in Bonifacio, the next you’re saying “ciao” over an aperitivo in La Maddalena – it’s all part of the adventure.
FAQ: Sailing in the Bonifacio & Maddalena Area
Q1: Do I need a special permit or ticket to sail around the Maddalena or Lavezzi Islands?
A: For the La Maddalena Archipelago (Italy), yes – you must obtain a park permit during the main season (usually required May through October). This permit allows you to navigate, anchor (by day), or use mooring buoys in the national park. You can apply online on the park’s website or at their office in La Maddalena town or Palau. The cost depends on your boat length and the number of days (roughly a few euros per metre per day, with discounts for sailboats). Keep the permit receipt on board in case rangers or Coast Guard ask for it. On the Lavezzi (Corsican) side, there is currently no paid permit needed – but strict rules apply (no anchoring in posidonia seagrass, respect no-entry zones). Essentially, you are free to roam the French reserve as long as you follow the regulations. Also remember: overnight anchoring in Maddalena Park is not allowed (you’ll need to be on a park mooring buoy or outside the park at night).
Q2: What qualifications do I need to charter a yacht there?
A: To skipper a bareboat charter in either Corsica or Sardinia, you will need at least an ICC (International Certificate of Competence) or an RYA Day Skipper certificate (or the equivalent from your country). Charter companies will ask for this as proof you can handle the boat. Additionally, a VHF radio operator’s license is often required by law (especially in Italy) – so make sure to have that as well. If you don’t have these, you can either hire a professional skipper or consider getting qualified before you go. Keep in mind that charter companies also prefer you to have some prior sailing experience in similar conditions; they might request a sailing CV detailing your skippering history.
Q3: Is the area suitable for beginner sailors or families?
A: The region is best for sailors with at least some experience. The winds in the Strait of Bonifacio can be very strong, and the navigational challenges (rocky shoals, busy harbours) mean it’s not the easiest sailing ground for a first-timer. However, if you’re a beginner and still keen, you have options: go in mid-summer (when weather is calmer), stick to short day sails, and possibly take an instructor or skipper with you. Many families do sail here, but usually under the guidance of a hired skipper or on a flotilla. If you have basic skills and a competent crew, you can enjoy a lot of sheltered areas (like the lee of islands on gentle days). Always err on the side of caution – reef sails early, avoid the strait itself if winds are up, and use marinas for safety at night. With those precautions, even less experienced sailors can have a wonderful trip, but it’s wise not to be completely on your own if you’re unsure.
Q4: When is the best time of year to sail around Bonifacio and the Lavezzi/Maddalena islands?
A: The prime time is late spring through early autumn. June and September are often ideal – warm weather and sea, good sailing breezes, and fewer crowds than high summer. July and August have the most reliable sunshine and minimal rain, but they are extremely busy (you’ll need to reserve berths and expect popular bays to be crowded by midday). The wind can blow hard at any time, but statistically, July–August sees slightly less Mistral activity than April–May. May is lovely for wildflowers and a quieter experience, though the water is still cool for swimming and you might get more variable weather. October can be pleasant early in the month (and the sea is at its warmest after the summer heat), but late October often brings storms and many services begin to close. Winter (November–March) is off-season – only recommended for very experienced sailors seeking solitude (many harbours will have ample space then, but also very limited services and frequent gales). In summary: for most people, June, early July, or September offer the best balance of good weather and manageability.
Q5: What are the typical wind conditions there in summer?
A: In the summer months, mornings are often calm or lightly breezy, and a thermal sea breeze from the west or southwest tends to build in the afternoons (around 10–15 knots is common). However, the area’s big variable is the Mistral – when this northwesterly wind blows down from southern France, it can funnel through Bonifacio Strait at 25–30 knots or more, even in summer. These Mistral episodes can last a couple of days, after which conditions revert to normal. Another summer wind to note is the Libeccio, a southwesterly, which can kick up rough seas in the strait too. So, on a “normal” summer day, expect a pleasant breeze, but always check forecasts because a howling wind can develop if regional pressure systems trigger it. It’s not unusual for yachts to spend an extra day in port waiting for a strong wind to pass – it’s all part of sailing life here.
Q6: How are the facilities at the marinas and anchorages? Will I find fuel, water, provisions easily?
A: The main harbours have excellent facilities. Bonifacio’s marina provides fuel, water, electricity, showers, Wi-Fi, and is right next to a town with supermarkets, bakeries, and pharmacies. On the Sardinian side, Santa Teresa Gallura and La Maddalena town likewise have fuel docks, water/electric hookups, and nearby shops (La Maddalena has several supermarkets and a weekly market for fresh produce). Smaller anchorages like those in Lavezzi or many of the Maddalena coves are completely undeveloped – no supplies or services, which is part of their charm. Thus, you should stock up on groceries, water, and fuel whenever you’re in port. Garbage disposal: use bins in harbours (many anchorages in the park ask you to carry out everything). For repairs or marine equipment, Bonifacio has some basic chandleries and mechanics; larger ports like Ajaccio (further north in Corsica) or Olbia in Sardinia have more extensive marine services. In peak season, water may be rationed in some marinas due to drought conditions – it’s usually fine, but be conscious of conservation. Overall, you won’t struggle to find essentials as long as you plan stops at towns every few days. The longest stretch you might go without a town is if you spend several days just anchoring around the islands – in which case, start out with full tanks and plenty of food.
Q7: Can I easily sail between Corsica and Sardinia? Are there border checks?
A: Sailing back and forth between Corsica and Sardinia is straightforward – the distance is short (the main strait is about 10 nautical miles across at its narrowest) and there are no routine border formalities. Both France and Italy are part of the Schengen area, so there’s free movement. You won’t find “immigration” officials waiting; pleasure boats cross the line freely every day. The only checks you might encounter would be park rangers ensuring you have a permit in Italian waters, or French customs/coastguard doing the occasional random boat check (rare for tourist yachts unless you give reason). So, practically, you can treat the whole area as one cruising ground. Just mind the weather when planning a crossing – even that short distance can be rough in bad conditions. Choose a day with moderate winds and enjoy the sail. It’s common to do a morning trip from Bonifacio to La Maddalena or vice versa, which takes only 2–3 hours. Keep your passports and ship’s papers on board just in case, but you likely won’t need to show them. Also, remember to switch courtesy flags when you go from France to Italy or vice versa.
Q8: Are there any dangerous areas or hazards I should particularly be aware of?
A: The primary hazards in this region are rocks and shoals. The Lavezzi and Maddalena archipelagos are dotted with reefs, many of which are just submerged and not always easy to spot at a distance. It’s crucial to use up-to-date charts (and ideally GPS) and keep a good lookout. Notorious spots include the gaps around Lavezzi Island (many wrecks historically, due to hidden rocks) and some channels in Maddalena (which are narrow – follow marked passages like the Passo della Moneta between La Maddalena and Caprera, or the buoyed route between Budelli and Santa Maria). Always give a wide berth to any isolated danger marks or cardinal buoys – they are there for good reason! Apart from rocks, wind is the other “hazard” – gusts can catch you off guard. The strait can have sudden katabatic gusts off the Corsican cliffs or funnelling blasts between islands. Reef your sails early if in doubt. Currents in the strait exist but are not usually strong except in the narrowest channels, where a couple of knots of current can run when wind and sea conditions force water through – be mindful if drifting near a lee shore. Lastly, the heavy traffic of ferries and fast tour boats means you should maintain a radar/AIS watch if you have it, especially in any limited visibility (fog is rare here, but squalls can reduce visibility). In summary: rocks, wind, and other vessels – with proper caution, none of these will spoil your trip, but they demand respect.
Q9: What if I encounter a Mistral wind while sailing – what should I do?
A: If a Mistral (strong northwest wind) is forecast or starts blowing, the best course is to seek shelter early. Bonifacio harbour is an excellent refuge in a Mistral – it’s protected from all sides by cliffs. Other good shelters: Santa Teresa Gallura marina (well enclosed), La Maddalena harbor (protected by surrounding islands), or even Porto Vecchio on the east side of Corsica (if you can get there, as it’s sheltered from NW wind by mountains). Avoid being caught in the open strait during a full-blown Mistral; conditions can become very rough with steep waves. If you’re already out when it picks up, shorten sail (down to storm jib or bare poles if necessary) and make for the nearest lee of land. The lee side of any island (e.g., south side of Lavezzi or east side of Caprera) will offer some respite, but you’ll likely still have strong gusts. Having a plan B every day – “where do we go if the wind suddenly hits force 7?” – is wise. Often the answer is to duck into the nearest leeward bay and wait. Mistrals usually last 1–3 days; don’t try to fight it. Many crews end up enjoying an unexpected lay-day exploring on land or socialising at port. Keep an ear on the VHF weather updates; French bulletins will issue a “Grand Frais” or “Coup de Vent” warning when a Mistral is on the way. And as local wisdom says: when you see the sky turn crystal clear and the horizon very sharp, or peculiar lens-shaped clouds forming over the mountains, a Mistral may be coming – time to double-check that anchor or those mooring lines!
Q10: What kind of marine life or natural sights might I see while sailing there?
A: Nature is one of the highlights of this sailing area. In the water, you may spot dolphins, especially in quieter times (they sometimes play in bow waves near the strait or around the islands). Sea turtles occasionally pass through. If you’re very lucky, you might even see a monk seal – a critically endangered seal that has a small population in Sardinia (though sightings are extremely rare). The Lavezzi reserve is known for fantastic snorkelling – expect to see colourful fish, corals, and maybe groupers in the clear shallows. On land, look out for ospreys (fish-eating birds of prey) that nest on cliffs – the Corsican osprey population has some nests in the Bonifacio area. You’ll also notice the peculiar dwarf vegetation on the islands: juniper bushes shaped by wind, wild herbs, and in spring, lots of wildflowers. Geologically, the contrast is striking – limestone cliffs on Corsica versus granite rocks in Maddalena. Sail close (but not too close!) to Bonifacio’s entrance and gaze up at the King of Aragon’s staircase – a steep stairway carved into the cliff. At Capo Pertusato (east of Bonifacio) you’ll see a dramatic rock arch and lighthouse. Over in Sardinia, the pink beach of Budelli is famous (though you can’t walk on it). Also, don’t miss the sunset view of the Lavezzi islands from sea – the rocks take on a golden hue. In sum, keep your binoculars and camera handy; there’s plenty of natural beauty to take in while you sail. Just remember these are protected areas, so enjoy the wildlife but keep our impact minimal.
References:
- Cruising Guide – Bonifacio, Corsica (World Cruising Wiki)cruiserswiki.orgcruiserswiki.org – Wind conditions in the Strait of Bonifacio described as some of the windiest in the Med, with funnel effects between Corsica and Sardinia.
- Yachting News – “Corsica: the other island” (The Triton, 2012)the-triton.com – Remarks on Bonifacio Strait always blowing a gale from east or west; advice to treat it with respect, especially during a Mistral in the Gulf of Lion.
- Boating Guide – Sailing in Corsica (BoatTheGlobe)boattheglobe.comboattheglobe.com – Seasonal overview noting constant sea breeze in summer and strong southwesterly Libeccio winds affecting the Bonifacio area.
- BYS Europe – Guide for Yacht Captains in Southern Corsicabyseurope.combyseurope.com – Details on Bonifacio Port de Plaisance (400 berths, full services) and Sant’Amanza Bay (mooring buoys, avoid Posidonia).
- Cruising Guide – Lavezzi Archipelago (CruisersWiki)cruiserswiki.orgcruiserswiki.org – Information on Lavezzi anchorages (Cala Lazarina, Cala Giunco), presence of tripper-boat mooring buoys and the practice of using them overnight once tour boats leave.
- Nautic Assistance News (Aug 2024)nauticassistance.comnauticassistance.com – Announcement of new regulations in La Maddalena National Park: no anchoring at night (9pm–8am) anywhere in the park, except on park-installed mooring buoys (for boats <15m).
- Nautilus Yachting – Corsica Charter Infonautilusyachting.com – States that an RYA Day Skipper or ICC qualification is required for bareboat charters in Corsica (and by extension, most Med charter locations).
- Sunsail – Sardinia Charter Guidesunsail.comsunsail.com – Indicates required skipper qualifications (ICC or Day Skipper) and experience level (Level 3: at least 20 days/400 miles as skipper) for chartering in North Sardinia.
- Bonifacio Tourist Office – Lavezzi Archipelago Infobonifacio.co.uk – Advises that anchoring is organised and monitored by patrols, and reminds that dropping anchor in Posidonia seagrass is forbidden.
- Santa Teresa Gallura Port – Official Marina Infoportosantateresa.com – Overview of Santa Teresa’s harbour (Longonsardo), noting ~700 berths, good shelter (especially from west winds), and comprehensive facilities.